Daniel M KarlssonI am maybe getting over my hangup about dual texture grips. This yellow 6A+ route is dual texture and I was able to complete it after a couple of botched attempts. I focused my mind on the rough texture and could after some mental gymnastics convince my thumb to not induce panic in the rest of the hand on account of that shiny slippery surface. Four out of five fingers on the rough texture is plenty given the angle to offset the weight.
[marsh] has moved!@t36s I find you can sometimes get surprising purchase on those holds when they are rotated more than ~30deg from horizontal by aiming for the highest corner with your hand sorta like a C shape, hooking over the hold.
@mrshll Yes, surprisingly good. Point of contact and angle needs to be just right. Sneaky lil suckers.