Mastodawn

Trying something new today. Took some oak scraps from a wine barrel and turned a small platter out of them. Then dyed it black using steel wool and vinegar, applied some white liming wax to it, and put it back on the lathe to buff out.

That liming wax does not want to come off the surface without a fight. I may try a light coat of beeswax to seal the wood before applying it next time. Anyone who has worked with this stuff have any tips?

#woodworking #woodturning

Show thread

Greg Apr 19, 2023

@tipslave FWIW I've never used liming wax. But, do you want to keep the liming in the grain but gone on the surface, or less in the grain? Using a brass wire brush on the oak before could help load more wax in. Or maybe a light brushing after wax might lighten it up? Not sure how waxy your wax is, maybe some hot air might make some kind of difference in where it goes and spreads. The bowl already looks awesome, nice work.

Show thread

Hey Bartender Apr 19, 2023

@gregdavis Thanks! I'm trying to do the former - load up the pores with wax and then remove it completely from the surface, leaving defined areas of black and white.

The wax I have is fairly liquid, and dries to a thick hazy sheen on the surface. I used synthetic abrasive pads to scrub it off this time, but I'll try a test piece with a brass brush and see if that helps.

Show thread

Per Helge Berrefjord Apr 19, 2023

@tipslave Same sort of struggle with other grainfillers: To get it off while keeping it in the grain. Rubbing with a cloth with some more plain oil on - like Chestnut Hardwax, is worth a try. Did this earlier this week when trying Liberon Gilt Cream. Suspecting there are also some tricks to learn on applying the stuff. How thick, how vigorous, how long between applying and rubbing etc.