Krista Stevens
Longreads"Most surfers’ best protection is self-knowledge; they only go out when the size of the wave matches their skill level, and no higher. And all surfers know the admonition about going out with a buddy, or at least when there are others in the water. Just in case. It is common sense. It is wisdom. And yet, some days, I go out alone."
—Mylène Dressler on the allure of surfing and the joy she finds in the water.