1940s Lee Riders (1)
I'll start with the center tag. The tag on this pair is referred to as a "red tag" because of the red thread used for the text 'UNION MADE' and 'Sanforized' and the red box enclosing the text. The tag itself is made of black material and has faded into a light grey. I'm pretty sure that the color has faded, and that the material must have been black when new, as I've never seen any deadstock Lee jeans with a grey tag. (Please correct me if I'm wrong.)
What intrigues me is that some Lee jeans from this period have tags that fade like this one, while others have tags that remain black. I've even seen a few pairs on which a third or half of the tag has faded like this one, and the rest has remained pitch black, with a very sharp division between the two areas (e.g. https://webstore.berberjin.com/view/item/000000048949 ). It's therefore not a matter of how they were washed, but it must rather be a matter of the material of the thread that was used in weaving the tag. Any Lee expert out there who can enlighten me on this mystery?
Pics 2 and 3 show the tags I use on Eureka jeans. They are made from rayon and were woven at a small mill, one of only a handful of mills left in Japan that weave with rayon thread. The look and feel of rayon tags is quite different from that of polyester tags, especially after washing. They don't fade though, which is why I also had some made with light grey thread to imitate the feel of faded tags.

#vintagedenim #vintagejeans #realvintage #redcentertag #lee #leeriders #eurekajeans
From my humble collection…
So far I have only posted pictures of my own work. As I'm away from my sewing machines and can't make anything new for a while, I thought I'd post some pictures once in a while of real vintage denim in my very small collection. I'll write a bit about what makes each of these unique and special, and how they inspire me in what I make and how I make it.
Starting with a late 1940s - early 1950s pair of Lee Riders; a so-called "red center tag". This is a pair I've worn on and off for about 20 years.
I'll focus on some details over the next several posts.

#selvedgedenim #vintagedenim #realvintage #lee #leeriders #redcentertag