While protractors and bevels are handy, they're not always on hand. Whether saving a trip to the toolbox or speeding up the process, this technique is your quick fix. It’s efficient and accurate and makes your project flow seamlessly.
#TimberTips #woodworking #carpentry
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Got a saw that can't swing to 57º? No problem. Cut a throwaway piece of timber at 33º to act as a temporary fence. Adjust your saw blade to a straight 0º. Now, with your bead against this makeshift guide, your cut will be at a sharp 57º. A simple fix for a perfect fit.
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For those pesky angles under 45º, here's the skinny: Align your mitre saw with the line on your bead—that’s your cut angle. Take for instance a 33º angle. Its opposite? A quick calculation: 90º minus 33º equals 57º. Jot that down—it's your template for precision.
#TimberTips #woodworking #carpentry
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Let’s unravel the mystery of marking angles sans a protractor or bevel. Begin with marking the panel at the join points as shown. Then, on your bead, indicate where the panel corner is and the intersection of the lines. Connect these dots with a line on the bead, and there’s your angle. Ready for more? Stay tuned!
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A five minute job took me thirty because of previous bad workmanship.
DIY’ers. Take this free tip. Take your time and do it right once. Then the chances of you having to do it again are then greatly reduced and anyone else coming behind you won’t think you’re a complete prick.
Also! If you notice in the picture that I set the hinge on the door to the edge of the hinge blade and not all the way up to the knuckle. Do that too.
It will give you that little bit of clearance that could be all you need to stop the knuckle rubbing on the door or frame. No one likes that little squeak as the door opens or shuts.
I have a legitimate #TimberTips today for those who want to hang their own doors.
There is actually a right and wrong way to put your hinges.
See in the picture there is a gap between the hinge blade and the pin? That is your indication that that side should always go on the door.
The other hinge blade has no gap at the top or bottom. This is to support the pin so that over time it doesn't bend from the weight of the door and that goes on the frame.
You have no idea how often I see these the wrong way around.
This is especially important on bathroom doors because the constant change in humidity can cause the door to move and swell more than usual.
Todays #TimberTips is a little controversial.
But if you are in need of a sharp chisel and you only have a belt sander at hand, it will do the trick. 😂😉
You’re welcome.
Sometimes I get bored at work and make it trickier for myself by making scarf joints like this when I fix my posts together.
Not only doea it make the post super strong (it's overkill), I also like to see a bit of skill thrown in.
A tip for anyone willing to give it a go. As these posts need to be straight and the old ones may not be, make the joint loose and then you can set your post in plumb rather than having to follow the original line of the post.
Here’s a little maintenance tip for you lot.
If you find that the screws on your door hinges are loose and not gripping well anymore. Get yourself a length of dowel, 12mm (half inch) would be great. Then drill a 12mm hole into the the old screw hole and glue the dowel in there. Once dry, cut the dowel off flush and you now have a new position for a screw.
Don’t forget your pilot holes.
In this particular repair I used tapered 12.7mm pellets instead of dowel for a tighter fit.
Steve