Fully charged each group in the battery pack so that it is balanced. Finished the pack after ordering correct size heat shrink. Had to lengthen positive lead.
Snap together cell holders added length to the pack. That prevented reinstalling the fan.
The outputs on the power station seem working. Tested the AC out with a lamp as a load.
I now own a set of triangular screwdrivers. I should have tossed the security screws but couldn’t bother digging up replacements.
Added sides to the homemade cargo trailer. Securing stuff with ratchet straps is a pain and things shifting around to rub on a wheel was getting bothersome.
Sides are framed with 1x2 lumber, screened with hardware cloth and attached with 2 carriage bolts with wing nuts. Should be easy to remove and stack for storage.
Pedaled the commute and grabbed some groceries. Used the heavy touring bike as a bit of a shake down. Considering it for an upcoming rail trail excursion.
The build is a drop bar conversion on an old Univega rigid steel mountain bike frame from late 80s. Bought as frame and fork because it had mid-fork rack mounts.
Charged the LiPo pack which powers my basic spot welder setup. Cutting strips and started welding together the 18650 pack.
The wire leads will get soldered on. I need to check the lengths because I plan to wrap the pack in heat shrink (the old pack was not wrapped.)
Also need to work out how to secure the pack and replacement cooling fan. Plastic supports are broken and things were rattling around.
Planning to test and tear down the old pack at a later time. So I clicked together some cell holders.
Using unmarked cells that I don’t remember what I salvaged them from. I have 28 of them and they are all at around 4.1v after sitting for months. Recorded capacity test when salvaged and they are all around 2.8ah and within 100mah. Internal resistance tests pretty equal across all of them right now. Stuck fish paper rings on positive terminals and loaded my cell holders.
Repairing a portable power station for an unhoused friend. I have been interested in cobbling one together for myself but never really researched it.
Anyway they reported the inverter switch as faulty because AC only works momentarily. Switch tests good. The battery groups show 2.8v on two groups and 3.5v on the last. I suspect the cells are worn and it cuts off due to voltage drop under load.
I have salvaged cells in good condition to rebuild the pack with.
Did some errands and commuted on a road bike in order to enjoy some of the cool spring weather.
I still love the Sensah R7 shifters. The bike did get a rapid rise derailleur and a wider cassette to match. Rapid rise is old Shimano speak for a low normal rear derailleur. Rivendell recently started selling ones which as “reverse action.”
I lack strong feelings about low versus high normal on rear derailleur designs. I don’t think it matters when setup properly and working well.
Someone pulled an electric scooter out of a dumpster and asked me to look at fixing it. Saw the deck was missing, later noticed the motor cable was spliced and the charger port cable was cut. Idk any back story but I’m both horrified and impressed.
BMS is proprietary with a serial connection. The 13 series battery is putting out 6 whole volt. Tried another pack and got nothing, should have an error code. Pulled battery to try to salvage BMS.
Seems there is ESP32 software to mimic a NIU BMS.
Sunny but cool day, so rode the commute on the track bike. I really enjoy this bike.
Bought the frame and fork at a bike swap years ago. A friend pointed it out to me and it happened to be my size. Funny because on the drive to the event I mentioned wanting to build a Japanese track bike.
It took me over a decade to get around to building it, mainly due to the outdated rear axle standard. Wheels were only available with tubular rims. Bought the hubs and laced them to clinchers.
