I’m back to watching surf videos and I’m wondering how many times someone gets run over on a wave when it’s as congested as it is in this one? Traffic nightmare!
🏄🌊
“Banzai Pipeline Firing 🔥 (Dec 2, 2022) 4K”
https://youtu.be/q2a-wN6kKl4

#Surfing #BanzaiPipeline #NorthShore #Oahu #Hawaii

Banzai Pipeline Firing 🔥 (Dec 2, 2022) 4K

YouTube

I have now arrived at this excellent video:

“Why you should NEVER surf Malibu”

https://youtu.be/_VDd0G8ghNA

#Surfing #Malibu #Chaos #JohnnyUtah #Bodhi #ExPresidents

Why you should NEVER surf Malibu

YouTube
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan review – a memoir of an obsession

For the New Yorker writer, chasing waves was far more than a sport. It was a calling, a means of working out his place in the world

The Guardian