Working on UI tweaks to my VOID adventure game. I’ve been adjusting some icons based on feedback and would love to hear your opinions on a few variations!
Take a peek:
https://ko-fi.com/post/Icon-Experiments-H2H71WEJAU
#MARCHintosh #HyperCard #retrocomputing #retrogaming #classicmac #macintosh #vintagemac
Apple bags from the mid '80s and mid '90s respectively, when its products were sold by authorized dealers. In the '00s, the bags lost all their color and the apple logo turned gray.
Last time I printed to my LaserWriter II printer, it made a horrible noise: lots of repeated clacking.
Tonight I figured out why. A gear broke on the fuser assembly which caused the paper delivery to fail and the page got stuck inside. I swapped it with a gear from an old fuser assembly and we're back in business!
I really like the print quality of this printer. With the IIg card, it does an amazing job. Just a tad on the slow side. 🐢
Also related: anyone have an internal SCSI drive flat cable from the inside of a PowerBook Duo 230 or perhaps a dead Duo 230? I'd love to convert this to a BlueSCSI and get WiFi (the current drive and cable inside is IDE).
My current theory is capacitor problems affecting two specific connection areas determined by this diagram of the LCD flipping the display to match the rear.
But I reaaaallly don't want to break this LCD by trying to lift this board away and having those thin flex cables break.
One year later, the PowerBook 2300c display has exactly the same problem in the same area. So I tore it down again and swabbed all of the column pads on the LCD again, but maybe not as thoroughly as I did previously. Much to my surprise, it looks ok again.
The display is a Toshiba LTM09C035L.
So, the question is: was this leaking capacitor related or maybe a janky LCD flat cable?
j.downs 
Daniel Tufvesson
Ken McLeod
UpLateGeek
paulrickards
