1910s type waist overalls
Hemming -- the very last sewing step!
As these are completely single-needle construction, the hems are done with a lockstitch.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #1910s #waistoveralls #singleneedleconstruction #hemming #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1910s type waist overalls
Sewing the top seam of the waistband and the linen patch in one go.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #1910s #waistoveralls #singleneedleconstruction #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Sewing on the waistband the very old-fashioned way.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #singleneedleconstruction #waistband #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

I don't often make replicas of Levi's jeans, but once in a while it's fun. This pair is based on jeans 05 in the book "The 501XX", but in the No 2 version rather than the XX version, meaning it is sewn with cotton thread rather than linen thread and will have a linen rather than a leather label.
This is one of my favorite Levi's models, made shortly after overlocking was introduced, but before the introduction of chainstitched seams and belt loops -- the perfect model to make on my machines here in Osaka.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #the501xx #singleneedleconstruction #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1890s waist overalls
I gave the pair I made a few weeks ago a first wash and did the hemming, of course with a single-needle lockstitch. A double row of stitches, which is quite unusual for hems nowadays, but wasn't at all uncommon in the 1890s.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #1890s #waistoveralls #hemming #singleneedleconstruction #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1890s waist overalls
One distinguishing feature is the reverse waistband button. This was fairly common on jeans from this period, but I'm not sure what the purpose was. Please enlighten me if you know.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #singleneedleconstruction #1890s #waistoveralls #reversewaistbandbutton #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Almost done!
The rivets and buttons will have to wait until next week when I go back home to Tokyo.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #1890s #waistoveralls #singleneedleconstruction #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

A pair I started planning before moving to Osaka in March. Maybe next time I'm home ...

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #singleneedleconstruction #waistoveralls #notimetosew #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1910s Eureka waist overall -- side stitch
As with so many parts of the jeans, there are many different ways of doing the side stitches. For this pair I used a rather rare double row of stitches, sewn with a single-needle machine, starting at the waistband, making a u-turn at the bottom, and going back up.
The double row has the advantage that the yoke seam folded in the outseam lies nice and flat.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #sidestitch #singleneedleconstruction #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Until I got a double-needle chainstitch machine two years ago, all the jeans I made were single-needle construction, like this pair which I made in 2002. Now that I've had plenty of practice with the double-needle chainstitch machine, I'd like to do some single-needle construction again some time soon.
Over the next several posts I'll go over some of the details of the pair in this picture, which was inspired by waist overalls from the 1910s.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #singleneedleconstruction #flatfelledseams
#eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale