PHX Rail FoodCleaverman
For those who remember the Arizona Center when the development first opened in 1990, nothing may be more indicative of the complex’s changes than the closure of Hooter’s, the last of the original restaurant lineup to go. Even people who never ventured inside the development were aware of the “breastaurant” due to its prominent location at Third Street and Van Buren. When Hooter’s closed, that left a prime spot ready for a prime tenant. With its new steakhouse Cleaveman, Pretty Decent Concepts appears to be betting big on a revitalized Arizona Center.
eight-ounce filet mignon with brandy green peppercorn saucePretty Decent is the same company behind Wren and Wolf a few blocks away, as well as Filthy Animal and Roman God of Fire in Tempe. Unlike many upscale restaurant companies that focus primarily on suburban locations, Pretty Decent has wagered on urban vitality in both Phoenix and Tempe. Cleaverman replicates many of the motifs seen at the company’s other properties while adding a distinctive focus on classic steakhouse fare with a few contemporary updates. The result is a new marquee tenant at what is essentially the front door of the Arizona Center.
crab cakeThat door is found just three blocks east of the Van Buren light rail platforms on the B Line and three blocks north of the Third Street stations on the A Line, making the restaurant accessible by both trains. Bike racks are found on Third Street near Taylor, as well as on the other side near the Sheraton hotel. A sign near the restaurant entrance proclaims, “True love is rare,” and a long corridor leads from the entry to a host station. Beyond lies an expansive dining room that is completely transformed from the days of chicken wings, orange shorts, and white t-shirts.
lemon artichoke saladLike other Pretty Decent restaurants, the dining room is filled with banquettes surrounding columns. Here, they’re designed in a style that looks like Corinthian meeting art deco. For the most part, the furniture is dark wood, although a marble counter at the bar and ample mirrors in strategic locations add a bit of light in a space where the sun is blocked by heavy curtains. A raw bar stands in front of an open kitchen helmed by Jared Porter, a prominent local chef known for his prior work at establishments as diverse as the Parlor, Tesota, and the Clever Koi.
duck stroganoffIn turning from pizza and ramen to classic steakhouse cuisine, Porter and his crew here have created a menu that is simultaneously classic and contemporary. Appetizers include familiar items with creative flourishes. The crab cake is not only excellent on its own merits but also benefits from a topping of lobster bisque, adding a second layer of complementary crustacean flavor. The French onion meatballs involve spheres of ground beef mixed with bread crumbs, herbs, and even a little bit of anchovies, all swimming in a thick version of classic onion soup.
branzino meunièreSteaks are of course central to the entrees. That includes filet mignon in both eight and twelve ounce configurations, as well ribeye, strip loin, and premium wagyu options. The desired level of doneness is confirmed via a cleaver-shaped trinket inserted into each steak as it emerges from the broiler. Enhancements available for an additional cost include a crab cake, scallops, shrimp, and shaved black truffle. Extending the a-la-carte approach, sauces such as chimichurri, bordelaise, bearnaise, or brandy green peppercorn can all be added for a few dollars more.
steak frites“Plated fare” is the label applied to those entrees that are not steak, and they’re worthwhile in their own right rather than being mere alternatives for those who prefer not to eat red meat. Branzino meunière is a pan-seared white fish accentuated with capers, lemon butter, and tiny tomatoes. Duck stroganoff blends poultry with al dente Sonoran pasta campanelle, mushrooms, and bordelaise sauce with toppings of frisée and a foie gras emulsion. The latter may seem decadent, but it adds a bit of smoothness to balance the salty and umami tastes of the dish.
grilled broccoliniAlthough Cleaverman is definitely at peak energy and occupancy at night, it does have a distinct lunch menu, which features not only a subset of what’s offered at dinner, but also some items unique to midday. These include steak frites, a cost-effective alternative to the usual steak and sides ordered a la carte with a six ounce flatiron and fries, a hearty fish and chips entree, and the restaurant’s version of an Italian beef sandwich. Purists may be annoyed by the inclusion of cheese, but with the restaurant’s prime rib in a roll with giardiniera and a side of au jus is sharp.
BBCIn terms of vegetables, one area for improvement might lie in letting them speak for themselves more. Brussels sprouts are nicely charred but almost overwhelmed by the smokiness of pork belly. Likewise, broccolini is well prepared but covered by more bearnaise sauce than needed. For those interested in greens, the lemon artichoke salad is a bright, refreshing alternative that mixes the tastes of arugula, lemon, and parmesan. Among the starchy sides, a unique item is the Yorkshire pudding, a timeless British treat seldom seen on contemporary American menus.
Going RougeThe desserts include a honey fig cheesecake, a trendy Dubai chocolate parfait, baba au rhum, and the BBC, a brown butter cookie in a skillet with a restrained sweetness that contrasts nicely with a parmesan popcorn gelato and pieces of popcorn on top. The full bar pours beer, wine, cocktails, and mocktails such as the Going Rouge, powered by blood orange and beets. While most of the Arizona Center’s space still awaits new tenants, the arrival of Cleaverman after more than three decades of Hooter’s is a welcome upgrade to the development’s front door.
455 N. 3rd St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.cleaverman.com
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