Lo-Lo’s Chicken & Waffles

Combining fried poultry with leavened breakfast food has become a trend so widespread that chicken-and-waffles is seen on even normally cautious hotel restaurant menus. Fans debate the dish’s place of origin, most often claimed to be either Baltimore or Los Angeles, and its cultural background, whether Pennsylvania Dutch or soul food. In Phoenix, the chicken-and-waffles pairing has decidedly been influenced by the latter, and Lo-Lo’s has been the restaurant to popularize the combination, even as so many other places have added it to their menus.

Lil Amadi

Lo-Lo’s has grown in recent years via franchising, with a sometimes changing array of locations not only in the Phoenix Metropolitan Area, but also in Nevada and Texas. Nevertheless, the restaurant on south Central Avenue remains the small chain’s flagship. To be clear, this site is not really the original Lo-Lo’s. That was actually a smaller building around the corner. Since then, Lo-Lo’s has expanded into its current structure, which is just a block from Buckeye/Central station on the B Line. A bike rack is found in the parking lot next to the restaurant’s patio

soul food platter with smothered chicken, red beans, and collards

The restaurant is dominated by one large dining room with red brick walls covered with photographs commemorating both public figures and the family of Larry “Lo-Lo” White, the founder of the restaurant and the grandson of the legendary Mrs. White, who has her own longstanding restaurant. A DJ booth operates on weekend nights, adding some music to the ambience. There can be a wait for a table, especially during peak brunch hours, and the shaded patio on the north side of the building is more often used as a waiting area than it is for dining.

soul food platter with catfish, whipped potatoes, and mushrooms with onions

Lo-Lo’s namesake speciality is what can be seen on most plates coming out of the kitchen, but the restaurant has a full menu of traditional soul food with a few updated twists. Appetizers, all of them fried, include green tomatoes, catfish beignets, okra, and even gizzards. Combine them in a trio or order them separately, but either way, they’re as filling as the entrees to come, so some sharing is recommended. Due to Lo-Lo’s large portions and the lack of a bar or counter to sit at, the restaurant is not an ideal place for solo dining, especially during peak hours.

Ya-Ya’s Honey Butta Chicken Biscuit with sauteed zucchini and squash

Chicken and waffles are available in ten different configurations. The dishes are all creatively named and differentiated mainly by the number and type of poultry pieces on the plate. For customers who prefer white meat, Betty’s Boob is essentially what it sounds like: a fried chicken breast with a waffle. For those favoring dark meat, Lil Amadi replaces the breast with a leg and a thigh. The Lo-Lo’s eponymous dish is an enormous plate of three pieces of chicken with two waffles, and other configurations include chicken smothered with gravy and onions.

Cool Bre Bre’s chicken salad

These platters are all unabashed protein and starch. As appealing as those can be, a vegetable side or two is a way to add some color and nutrients to the plate. Collard greens or sauteed spinach add some greenery to the meal, while candied sweets (potatoes) are decidedly orange and full of beta-carotene. Red beans, with or without rice, showcase the role of legumes in Southern cooking. Of course, it is always possible to add yet more carbohydrates with choices like creamy mac-and-cheese, whipped potatoes, buttery grits, potato salad, or French fries.

fried green tomatoes

If a break from waffles is desired, it’s still possible to obtain a large quantity and variety of food via one of Lo-Lo’s soul food platters. This build-your-own option allows the choice of fried chicken or catfish with any two sides and a cornbread muffin or biscuit, with the result being a massive platter. Alternatively, the meat can be omitted in favor of any four sides to create a colorful and bountiful vegetable plate. For seafood options beyond catfish, the decadent shrimp and grits, made with fried prawns, or the mac-and-cheese with grilled shrimp, add to the variety.

blackened fish dinner

Cool Bre Bre’s Chicken Salad may sound light, and, comparatively speaking, it is. Nevertheless, it’s a huge bowl of greens topped with either grilled or fried chicken, along with an entire avocado, candied walnuts, cherry tomatoes, and bacon. For a smaller meal, Ya-Ya’s Honey Butta Chicken Biscuit is as simple as a fried chicken tender between two halves of a biscuit drizzled with honey. Pair with a side or two for a manageable meal. Another uncomplicated option is an entree of grilled chicken, shrimp, or fish paired with any two sides.

banana pudding

With the emphasis on waffles, it’s not surprising that Lo-Lo’s has a menu section devoted to breakfast foods that are served all day. That includes entrees such as hearty biscuits and gravy or waffles fashioned into a breakfast sandwich with eggs and meat inside. The restaurant has two signature desserts. One is a rich banana pudding made with the requisite vanilla wafer cookies. The other is a generous slice of red velvet cake, by itself a simple combination of cocoa and food coloring but made more interesting with pecans sprinkled in the frosting.

red velvet cake

The signature beverages at Lo-Lo’s are sweet tea (although unsweetened is available) and Kool-Aid. Lo-Lo’s also has a liquor license (although not a distinct bar counter) that allows it to offer beer, wine, a few boozy and generally sweet cocktails served in voluminous mason jars. The debate over where the combination of chicken and waffles originated is far from over and may never be settled. Nevertheless, popularization of the concept in Phoenix is without a doubt the work of Lo-Lo’s, and the South Central location is as close as possible to where it started.

1220 S. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
https://loloschickenandwaffles.com

#bananaPudding #biscuits #breakfast #breakfastSandwiches #catfish #chickenAndWaffles #collards #cornbread #friedGreenTomatoes #macAndCheese #redVelvetCake #shrimpAndGrits #SouthCentral

Sophia’s

Although Frank Lloyd Wright is better known and Will Bruder is more contemporary, few architects have had as much influence on Phoenix’s urban landscape as Al Beadle. His work, often associated with Midcentury Modern design, is seen in both residential and commercial buildings throughout the city. On Thomas Road in Midtown, a stylish and popular breakfast and lunch restaurant called Sophia’s shows how even being next to a Beadle building can have a spillover effect in terms of aesthetics, leading to nearly instant popularity and some long lines.

French toast

To be clear, Sophia’s was not designed by Beadle, despite some social media misinformation suggesting it was. That distinction belongs to the office building next door, which happens to be the headquarters of the property management company owned by the restaurateur. Instead, it sits on the footprint of an old house which was torn down to the foundation and replaced with a square structure that seems inspired by Midcentury Modern architecture. The location is four blocks from Thomas/Central station on the B Line, and bike racks are found right outside.

golden corn waffle

The square space is bisected diagonally by a counter, essentially creating two triangles, one indoors and one outside. During pleasant weather, the two zones merge almost imperceptibly as customers and staff flow between them. With the restaurant’s enormous popularity, additional seating has been added along a strip on the east side; however, that portion is less shaded and not as appealing in summer heat. The interior design is defined by reflective surfaces and a soft color palette. It is not at all uncommon to hear first-time visitors describe the place as “cute.”

breakfast fried rice

Sophia’s describes itself as a “brunch counter.” That’s accurate because the restaurant typically sees its peak occupancy in the late morning, and it operates under a counter service business model. Those factors, combined with enormous popularity on social media, often lead to a line that extends out the door onto the sidewalk outside, even in triple digit heat, as people wait to order their food. For best results, go early or go late. Dining at Sophia’s before 10 AM or after 1 PM (but before the 3 PM closing time) is usually less of a hassle than arriving at 11 AM or noon.

St. Francis Salmon Superfood

Once customers have ordered, they choose their tables, and staff try to maintain seating availability by gently redirecting any “campers” who have tried to cheat by claiming seats before placing orders. With all the focus on appearances and all the influencer hype, it might seem easy to overlook the food here. Fortunately, the all-day menu at Sophia’s is a largely successful mix of updated American breakfast and lunch favorites enhanced with a few Asian, European and Mexican influences and a reliance on quality products, many of them from local purveyors.

Sophia’s burger

Every item on the menu is available from open to close, but the sequencing of dishes begins with items traditionally associated with breakfast. Sophia’s makes French toast look like it has been assimilated by the Borg from Star Trek. Three slices of milk bread are assembled into a cube covered with syrup and a generous pat of butter. Within the interior lies a core of dulce de leche, making resistance indeed futile. The golden corn waffle with a slightly coarse texture and a sprinkling of pine nuts is slightly less indulgent but still one of the sweeter items on the menu.

chicken schnitzel

A more savory choice is the breakfast fried rice, a dish with a slight Korean accent. The grains in the bowl are mostly soft but interspersed with a few crispy bits. Topped with a fried egg, it’s loaded with vegetables like cauliflower and broccoli. mushrooms and bacon for a bit of umami, and what is purported to be kimchi. The last ingredient has such a firm texture and lack of spice that it seems more like straight napa cabbage with minimal fermentation. While the dish would benefit from a kimchi upgrade, it is an otherwise successful alternative to typical morning fare.

Super Veggie

As the menu becomes more oriented towards lunch, dishes include St. Francis Salmon Superfood, a nod to chef Aaron Chamberlain’s former restaurant St. Francis on Camelback Road. It’s a hearty bowl of grilled fish with radishes, cucumbers, avocado, and quinoa. A more indulgent alternative is Sophia’s burger with caramelized onions, comte cheese, and “French onion sauce,” which seems basically like an aioli. Both the burger and a fried chicken sandwich are paired with waffle fries, while the breakfast sandwich and burrito come with tater tots.

veggie sandwich

A lighter approach to crispy chicken involves thin schnitzel with a Caesar salad. A meatless “Super Veggie” dish benefits from the earthy tastes of mushrooms and lentils, and a vegetable sandwich features lightly pickled carrots, avocado, sprouts, and goat cheese in between slices of oat bread and a side of fruit. While most of the items on the menu come from Sophia’s own kitchen, the restaurant is not afraid to outsource when appropriate. That approach extends to pastry provided by Chaconne, including savory options like a ham and cheese croissant.

pastry and chai

The front counter also displays a variety of tarts and cookies that can serve as dessert, and bread pudding is occasionally available as a special. While the restaurant does not have room for a full bar, it does serve a selection of beer, wine, and brunch-oriented drinks like mimosas and espresso martinis. Espresso also appears in a variety of coffee drinks, both hot and iced. Without a selfie wall, a neon sign, or other obvious appeals to social media, Sophia’s has managed to become viral, and while the wait for treatment can take a while, the food is the cure.

336 E. Thomas Rd., Phoenix AZ 85012
https://www.sophiasbrunch.com

#breakfastBurritos #breakfastSandwiches #frenchToast #Midtown #salads #sandwiches #taterTots #waffleFries #waffles

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Matt’s Big Breakfast

It’s interesting how even the most adventurous eaters tend to be conservative about breakfast. People who gladly consume foods from outside their own family traditions in the afternoon and evening often revert to familiar dishes like eggs, bacon, pancakes, and waffles in the morning. Matt’s Big Breakfast, having recently expanded yet again with a new flagship location next to its old one, continues to embrace the familiar but does so with a high standard that emphasizes high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients and a hand-crafted approach to their preparation.

waffle and bacon

Matt’s current flagship is just two blocks from Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line and is the third version of the restaurant to exist on the same block of First Street during the restaurant’s two decades of operation.. Bike racks are found at the corner of Garfield and First with many more found among the surrounding blocks. Although this location is the biggest Matt’s yet and the first location with extensive shaded patio seating, there can still be a wait for a table during peak weekend hours. Solo diners or pairs can often be seated at the counter immediately.

griddle cakes with blueberries

The menu offers both classic breakfast fare and lunch items offered after 11 AM.. Daily specials are on a separate sheet labeled “Matt’s Traditions.” Expect generous use of butter, whole milk, eggs, white flour, and pork products in many dishes. At Matt’s, “big breakfast” seems to refer not only to generous portions, but also an ongoing trend towards re-embracing some formerly taboo foods. The results are hearty dishes like the Chop & Chick, which combines a pork chop and two eggs or the Five-Spot, a breakfast sandwich with eggs, bacon, cheese, and onions on a roll.

French toast with sausage

The other eggs dishes all come with toast, served with fresh local fruit preserves, and a choice of potatoes. The home fries are big chunks of Yukon Gold with rosemary and onion cooked in olive oil and sprinkled with ground black pepper. The hash browns are simpler — a rectangular cake of julienned tubers griddled in butter until crisp on top while still tender beneath. For anyone seeking a Southwestern touch, Matt’s offers a hearty Big Papa Burrito stuffed full of three eggs, Schreiner’s chorizo, roasted potatoes, pinto beans, jalapeños, and cheddar cheese.

hickory burger with chips

The breakfast menu, which is served all the way until the 2:00 PM closing time, also has a few choices that focus more on carbs than protein. The griddle cakes are light, fluffy, and slightly sweet. There is a generous dollop of butter on top, and real maple syrup on the side. The waffle is supple and generously sized. It comes with two slices of thick-cut bacon while the griddle cakes, like everything else on the menu at Matt’s, can be supplemented with a side of bacon, sliced ham, or sausage, available as pork “country” links or patties or as chicken apple links.

Matt’s Reuben with macaroni salad

Although Matt’s core appeal is found in hearty diner-style food, the restaurant has made a few concessions to lighter eating and contemporary trends. A big bowl of steel-cut oats has long been on the menu with simple toppings of brown sugar and raisins. A newer addition is the seemingly ubiquitous coffee house favorite avocado toast. In this case, the emphasis on fresh, local ingredients is expressed via a colorful assortment of cherry tomatoes, sliced radishes, and microgreens placed over a smooth layer of mashed avocado on a thick slice of multigrain bread.

avocado toast

While most customers seem to come for breakfast, the lunch menu is available beginning at 11 AM. A longstanding signature item is the Big Butter Burger topped with American cheese, and the Hickory Burger, accessorized with Canadian bacon, cheddar, and onion is a recent menu addition. The chicken sandwich contains grilled breast marinated in pesto and paired with provolone and romaine. The chili is described as “Midwestern style,” meaning, in this case, ground beef with a  mild spice level, shredded cheddar, diced onions, and oyster crackers.

Biltmore club with coleslaw

Matt’s Reuben features thinly sliced corned beef placed between two slices of marble rye, griddled with just a little butter, and dressed with Swiss cheese, thousand island dressing, and plenty of sauerkraut. The Biltmore Club is built with roasted turkey with bacon, havarti, tomato, and romaine on toasted sourdough bread. All of the lunch sandwiches are served with potato chips by default, with the option to upgrade for a few dollars to either a creamy coleslaw or a macaroni salad with a nice sprinkling of black pepper to enliven this normally plain side.

chili bowl

The beverage selection is limited, but the fresh-squeezed orange juice, always sweet and slightly pulpy, is a dependable choice. Honey lemonade strikes the right balance between tart and sweet notes and can be enhanced with muddled strawberries or blueberries. Cola and other sodas on the menu, some from small batch producer Boylan Bottling. Coffee is available with unlimited refills, but don’t expect any espresso or matcha drinks. It’s just good straightforward coffee, roasted in Cave Creek and yet another ingredient of local provenance.

strawberry honey lemonade

With several suburban locations scattered throughout the Phoenix Metropolitan Area, as well as an outlet at Sky Harbor Airport, Matt’s Big Breakfast has grown well beyond the confines of its original building in Downtown Phoenix. There has even been some talk of potentially franchising the concept outside of Arizona. That’s quite a departure from the modest and minimalist origins of the restaurant, but a testament to its success as well. For many, breakfast may often be the most cautious meal of the day, but at Matt’s, there is no reason why it can’t be the best one.

817 N 1st St., Phoenix AZ 85004
http://www.mattsbigbreakfast.com

#avocadoToast #breakfast #breakfastBurritos #breakfastSandwiches #EvansChurchill #hashBrowns #pancakes #reuben #RooseveltRow #sausage #waffles

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