PHX Rail FoodSophia’s
Although Frank Lloyd Wright is better known and Will Bruder is more contemporary, few architects have had as much influence on Phoenix’s urban landscape as Al Beadle. His work, often associated with Midcentury Modern design, is seen in both residential and commercial buildings throughout the city. On Thomas Road in Midtown, a stylish and popular breakfast and lunch restaurant called Sophia’s shows how even being next to a Beadle building can have a spillover effect in terms of aesthetics, leading to nearly instant popularity and some long lines.
French toastTo be clear, Sophia’s was not designed by Beadle, despite some social media misinformation suggesting it was. That distinction belongs to the office building next door, which happens to be the headquarters of the property management company owned by the restaurateur. Instead, it sits on the footprint of an old house which was torn down to the foundation and replaced with a square structure that seems inspired by Midcentury Modern architecture. The location is four blocks from Thomas/Central station on the B Line, and bike racks are found right outside.
golden corn waffleThe square space is bisected diagonally by a counter, essentially creating two triangles, one indoors and one outside. During pleasant weather, the two zones merge almost imperceptibly as customers and staff flow between them. With the restaurant’s enormous popularity, additional seating has been added along a strip on the east side; however, that portion is less shaded and not as appealing in summer heat. The interior design is defined by reflective surfaces and a soft color palette. It is not at all uncommon to hear first-time visitors describe the place as “cute.”
breakfast fried riceSophia’s describes itself as a “brunch counter.” That’s accurate because the restaurant typically sees its peak occupancy in the late morning, and it operates under a counter service business model. Those factors, combined with enormous popularity on social media, often lead to a line that extends out the door onto the sidewalk outside, even in triple digit heat, as people wait to order their food. For best results, go early or go late. Dining at Sophia’s before 10 AM or after 1 PM (but before the 3 PM closing time) is usually less of a hassle than arriving at 11 AM or noon.
St. Francis Salmon SuperfoodOnce customers have ordered, they choose their tables, and staff try to maintain seating availability by gently redirecting any “campers” who have tried to cheat by claiming seats before placing orders. With all the focus on appearances and all the influencer hype, it might seem easy to overlook the food here. Fortunately, the all-day menu at Sophia’s is a largely successful mix of updated American breakfast and lunch favorites enhanced with a few Asian, European and Mexican influences and a reliance on quality products, many of them from local purveyors.
Sophia’s burgerEvery item on the menu is available from open to close, but the sequencing of dishes begins with items traditionally associated with breakfast. Sophia’s makes French toast look like it has been assimilated by the Borg from Star Trek. Three slices of milk bread are assembled into a cube covered with syrup and a generous pat of butter. Within the interior lies a core of dulce de leche, making resistance indeed futile. The golden corn waffle with a slightly coarse texture and a sprinkling of pine nuts is slightly less indulgent but still one of the sweeter items on the menu.
chicken schnitzelA more savory choice is the breakfast fried rice, a dish with a slight Korean accent. The grains in the bowl are mostly soft but interspersed with a few crispy bits. Topped with a fried egg, it’s loaded with vegetables like cauliflower and broccoli. mushrooms and bacon for a bit of umami, and what is purported to be kimchi. The last ingredient has such a firm texture and lack of spice that it seems more like straight napa cabbage with minimal fermentation. While the dish would benefit from a kimchi upgrade, it is an otherwise successful alternative to typical morning fare.
Super VeggieAs the menu becomes more oriented towards lunch, dishes include St. Francis Salmon Superfood, a nod to chef Aaron Chamberlain’s former restaurant St. Francis on Camelback Road. It’s a hearty bowl of grilled fish with radishes, cucumbers, avocado, and quinoa. A more indulgent alternative is Sophia’s burger with caramelized onions, comte cheese, and “French onion sauce,” which seems basically like an aioli. Both the burger and a fried chicken sandwich are paired with waffle fries, while the breakfast sandwich and burrito come with tater tots.
veggie sandwichA lighter approach to crispy chicken involves thin schnitzel with a Caesar salad. A meatless “Super Veggie” dish benefits from the earthy tastes of mushrooms and lentils, and a vegetable sandwich features lightly pickled carrots, avocado, sprouts, and goat cheese in between slices of oat bread and a side of fruit. While most of the items on the menu come from Sophia’s own kitchen, the restaurant is not afraid to outsource when appropriate. That approach extends to pastry provided by Chaconne, including savory options like a ham and cheese croissant.
pastry and chaiThe front counter also displays a variety of tarts and cookies that can serve as dessert, and bread pudding is occasionally available as a special. While the restaurant does not have room for a full bar, it does serve a selection of beer, wine, and brunch-oriented drinks like mimosas and espresso martinis. Espresso also appears in a variety of coffee drinks, both hot and iced. Without a selfie wall, a neon sign, or other obvious appeals to social media, Sophia’s has managed to become viral, and while the wait for treatment can take a while, the food is the cure.
336 E. Thomas Rd., Phoenix AZ 85012
https://www.sophiasbrunch.com
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