HDMI signal detection - Lemmy.World
I have a HDMI breakout board for a cheap and cheerful projector in a Hush box
with some automations (turn of fans, dim the lights and the like). This was
great, as whenever we turned on the media player - magic! However due to new
HDCP requirements from my partner’s favourite app, this solution will no longer
work. I have found a HDMI splitter that sorts out the HDCP issue, but CEC
traffic isn’t passed through and I am at a bit of a loss. I had 2 thoughts: -
Open the splitter and wire the CEC lanes - Listen to some of the other pins for
Video output I have no idea if either of those would work, has anyone had any
experience with this, or got any advice?
Lenovo USB-C PSU for laptops powers a Rasberry Pi, but cannot simply charge bicycle lights. WTF?
https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/52444164
USB-C PSU is 9v *only*. Is that compliant? Did a PD-compliant charger fry my gear?
https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/52443720
USB-C PSU is 9v *only*. Is that compliant? Did a PD-compliant charger fry my gear? - SDF Chatter
I bought a 2nd-hand (but new-in-box) Kenwood radio that requires USB-C @ 9 volt
1.5A. It did not come with the original charger, so I bought a separate
universal USB-C charger (145 watt, full range of voltages incl. 9v 3A). The
charger is not Kenwood, but it should work, no? Because we have standards,
right? I plugged it in and LCD was dead for like the first 45min. Then it
started to show the 3-stage charging indicator. The device would never power on.
I assumed it had to be well charged, but then saw in the manual that it’s
expected to function while it charges. It never got fully charged and the
display eventually simply went off. Day 2: I plugged it in again and it was
again dead for like 30 min before it started charging for hours. LCD went off
again. Never made charging progress and never powered on. Day 3: I plugged it in
and the LCD was off, as usual. But this time it stayed off. It no longer shows a
charging indicator even when plugged in overnight. I wonder if the charger
killed the radio (or the internal battery). I went to a retail shop that has the
same model radio on display. The display model had no juice but I plugged it in
and it instantly indicated it was charging and also instantly powered on. Then I
noticed the stock factory PSU is strictly 9v. WTF? Is that compliant? USB PD
chargers are supposed to default to 5v until the device asks for more. There is
a handshake process, per the spec. :::spoiler The handshake is important If a
device needs 12v, for example, you cannot just take a 12v PSU and solder a USB-C
connector to it. It will fry things because the device expects to start with 5v
and negotiate for 12v. ::: So WTF is Kenwood doing making a USB-C PSU that is
strictly 9v? Did they actually just hardwire a 9v PSU to USB-C connector and
build a device that skips the USB PD handshake? The manual says: only use the
Kenwood PSU that is made for the device. When I read that shit, I thought: yeah
yeah, the usual liability bullshit. They want us to be loyal and only use their
products. But now I wonder if they did something seriously obscure to where it’s
in fact true that only their 9v PSU will work – and yet it does not seem to be
sold separately. :::spoiler Crappy design? It’s certainly indisputably a crappy
design that the radio has an internal battery that (according to the manual)
must never be replaced by the consumer. But the more interesting question is
whether it’s a crappy design to produce a USB-C charger that is 9v-only. As well
as whether it is a crappy design to produce a radio that requires a
non-universal non-PD-compliant power source with a USB-C connector. ::: I
brought the dodgy radio into the store and plugged it into the Kenwood OEM PSU.
It’s still dead, which I suppose is concrete proof that the radio is toast.
Wacom drawing tablet compatibility issues
https://lemmy.ml/post/44248110
Wacom drawing tablet compatibility issues - Lemmy
First of all, I am really sorry if the topic of my question isn’t suitable for
this community, but I’ve been looking to find an answer to the following
question: is there any way to make my Wacom Intuos Pro S drawing tablet
(PTH-451) work on my MacBook (current macOS version is macOS Tahoe 26.3). I
tried to fiddle around a little, but with no result whatsoever.🥱
Is anyone able to identify this fried component?
https://lemmy.world/post/43933717
Phone + Tablet combo - Lemmy.World
I am looking for advice, on a thought I had. I wanted to combine a fairly simple
phone (preferably non gogole) with a tablet for my daily use. I am ok with the
tablet running Android, as I more or less am required to have it (or apple), for
safe log in, in my country The idea is, to not spend all the time death
scrolling on the phone, and only bring up the tablet up when I need to use
features that are not available on the phone. What I still was hopping for, was
a phone with basic functions, like calling, SMS, mail and calendar. Also it
should have a good camera, and some sort of privacy orientated navigation app.
It should also have hotspot, so that I can connect the tablet to the internet
through it. I wouldn’t mind an e-ink display, but I am not sure how that works
with a camera or if they even do come with quality cameras. Do you think that
you get more value for the money with a tablet, than a phone? Should I spend the
equivalent to a flagship phone on a tablet, or would i be getting more value, by
simply buying a phone, and dropping my plan on having a semi-dumb phone?
How do I get my oscilloscope to read voltage correctly?
https://lemmy.world/post/43228247
How do I get my oscilloscope to read voltage correctly? - Lemmy.World
I bought a cheap Hantek 6022BE to learn with and I’m just trying to measure some
voltage to check if it’s accurate. I’m using openhantek6022
https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022
[https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022] and also hscope on android. I’m
measuring a 19v laptop power supply with the 10x setting on the probe and also a
set of leads with a 20x attenuator. When I measure the power supply with my dmm
I’m getting 19.22V with the scope I’m getting much higher or lower depending on
where I set the voltage per division. Both programs have a calibration function
which I did. 20x attenuator showing 19.6v
[https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/cafa5e0f-89ef-4828-a618-cf60acecaa82.png] 10x
probe showing 20v
[https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/47578386-ffc3-4db2-b99f-0d571c91b005.png] 10x
probe with 2v per division setting only showing 9.81V
[https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/a1ed4b60-92ae-475e-90ce-9a597589bdf5.png]
i can't get this Stargate Arduino code to work with my D1 mini
https://reddthat.com/post/60148044
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