”I woke at dawn and went out to the vineyards to relieve myself. Walking around a corner, I found Moalem Jalil squatting on the ground and wiping his bare bottom with gravel. I had been surprised that when I was shown to the fields in Afghanistan, I was never given a pitcher of water with which to clean myself. The Afghan technique was now clear and I could see why Qasim and Abdul Haq [the armed men he was forced to travel with at least in the first weeks] so proudly displayed their toilet paper.”
Rory Stewart: The Places In Between.


