MD formatted toot
PPE for cycling
Intro
- Everyone needs to use PPE in their work
- Using rotary motors means the upper PPE needs to be long sleeved
- the ears need earmuffs with NNR from -12dB to -24dB (or more)
- sparking environments need fire proof ppe
- eyes need ANSI Z87 glasses as protection (no exeptions!)
- faces need ANZI Z87 face shields
Cycling needs heavy PPE
- all types of cycling require PPE
- helmets designed for cyling (jet style motorcyle helmets are of course much better)
- UV protective PPE glasses, if needed with dioptre correction
- ears need to be unobstructed at ALL times!
- no earbuds
- definately NO HEADPHONES
- ear obstructions drop your hearing sensitivity with more than 48 dB, meaning you hear -48dB of surrounding ENV, which can be deadly. Every day people get into traffic mishaps due to this stupidity
- chest needs sweat wicking PPE, designed for cyling MTB, race, timetrial can use the gear interchangeably
- torso needs long sleeved cycling PPE
- legs need bibs which go all the way up to the chest as first layer of heat regulation
- at least three layers of torso PPE are required, using less means getting scrapes to serious wounds when a fall is broken properly.
- imporperly broken falls mean contusions ligaments and or bone damage, which are prevented with basic Judo lessons, up to the yellow band
- in Judo you learn not to fear the fall, even at high speeds
- I've had a Sensei who threw me more than 4 meters in the air, with me running towards him at full speed, to break falls as they would occur in high speed situations
- feet need cycling shoes
- pedals should be designed for cycling style and used with shoes matching.
- if pedal straps systems are used those need inspection for wear and tear
- SPD pedals & shoes work great for me on all cycling platforms I ride in
- cleats need to be maintained, cleatnuts need greasing and proper torque
- cleatnuts need to be regularly de torqued then retorqued to detect oxidation lockups, otherwise the breaking torque will be so high the nut will need forceful removal with a power drill and heavy mechanical skills
inspect the race machine before riding and give tires proper ammounts of bar in air pressure
- grease the chain after wiping it of dirt from the last ride
- dirt has silica and other contaminants which work like grinding paste on chain lins
- take time before riding
Use common sense!
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