Picking a lining fabric is a little bit like matchmaking! 💞⁠
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You want to pick a lining that goes with your main fabric- for example, a silky rayon bemberg is a perfect match for this medium-weight wool coating. For a cotton eyelet, a smooth and lightweight cotton fabric would complement it well. For a rain jacket, a removable flannel lining might be just the thing!⁠
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We chat about lining styles, methods, fabrics, and more in Episode 187 - listen in if you missed it or if you just want a refresher. ⁠
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Do you want to sew with yummy, warm wools, but feel a little intimidated? We've got you. In Episode 164: Wool, we demystify this unique fiber. We talk about the characteristics of many common wool fabrics, give sewing tips, and share a bunch of indie patterns that would work well with wool. Plus, we share our own wool me-mades! ⁠
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Have you sewn with wool? Tell us about it in the comments!⁠
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📸: Heavyweight Double Faced Wool Blend Coating in Ganache from Blackbird Fabrics
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Are you traveling this holiday season? ✈️🚗🧳 Bring your sewing with you!⁠
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We know, holiday visits are usually pretty busy. But if you can squeeze a little bit of sewing in during the quieter moments, it might make the difference between frazzled and festive. Sewing is such a nice brain reset. Here are a few ideas for bringing your sewing along with you:⁠
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🪡 Hand sewing takes up a lot less space than machine sewing. Do some hand finishing on a garment - or do some of the construction steps by hand! It can really improve your skills. ⁠
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🪡 Embellish your me-mades or thrift finds with hand embroidery.⁠
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🪡 Try out a new hand sewing technique like applique or hexie quilting.⁠
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🪡 Bring your machine along and work on whatever makes your heart sing.⁠
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We have a bunch more tips and ideas in Episode 234: Sewing and Travel! (Not to be confused with Episode 273: Sewing FOR Travel, which is about sewing clothes, bags, and accessories BEFORE a trip. 😂)⁠
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In this week's episode, we interview Pauline Bruce aka @sewuthinkucan! She’s a pattern hacking genius, Sew the Look specialist, and beloved member of the sewing community. She chats with us about her continent-crossing sewing journey, tells us how to get sewing friendships off the internet and into real life, and reveals her secrets for finding patterns to dupe ready-to-wear looks. ⁠
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Lyocell (brand name Tencel) is a wonderful fabric for summer - it's drapey and breathable, with a cool hand. But what exactly is it? In Episode 181: Lyocell/Tencel, we answer these questions, plus much more!⁠
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🧵 How does it go from plant matter (usually wood) to finished fabric?⁠
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🧵 What is the difference between lyocell/Tencel and rayon?⁠
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🧵 What are the best garments to sew with it?⁠
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We love this fabric! What have you made from lyocell/Tencel?⁠
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📸: Rosewater Tencel Twill in Firecracker/Pink from Blackbird Fabrics
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How to cut and press double gauze (without losing those lovely crinkles!): ⁠
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Step 1: Pre-wash and dry your fabric.⁠
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Step 2: Use a steamy iron to remove any major folds. Either lift and set down the iron on those spots (not running it over the fabric) or just use the steam and finger press the big folds out. Try to preserve the crinkly texture as much as you can!⁠
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Step 3: Cut out your pattern pieces!⁠
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Keeping the crinkles in will give you a better idea of how the final garment will fit. Use your iron minimally, or just finger press it! Part of the beauty of double gauze is crinkliness, so it makes sense to work with it. ⁠
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Listen to Episode 231: Double Gauze for lots more tips!⁠
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📸: Organic Cotton Double Gauze in Sweet Pea from ⁠Blackbird Fabrics
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Give yourself time to cut ✂️✨⁠
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You know when people say things like, "Woodworking is 90% sanding?" Well, sewing is at least 30% cutting, and that's okay! In Episode 189: Cutting Patterns and Fabric, Helen said that she would get so frustrated in her early sewing days by how long the cutting part took. But now, she gives cutting the space and time it needs to be done well. And it helps to pair it with something fun, like calling a friend or watching TV. ⁠
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Have you ever felt annoyed by how long cutting takes? What do you do to make it through?⁠
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Caroline made a travel capsule wardrobe! Here are a few of the ✨looks✨⁠
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She sewed up a storm for her trip to Croatia - the vibe was natural fibers, breezy garments, and pops of red. Doesn't she look amazing? Details of each garment are available on our Patreon and in the June Blackbird Fabrics newsletter! (Or just ask us and we'll reply in the comments.)⁠
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If you want to hear us chat about sewing for travel, including travel capsules, listen to Episode 273!⁠
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Our best tips for fitting jumpsuits!⁠
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🧵 Don't skip the muslin! We recommend putting together just the top part and making any adjustments to that before attaching the bottoms and making adjustments to those.⁠
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🧵 Try grading between sizes if your measurements fall into different size categories for bust, waist, and hips. If they are more than three sizes apart, though, traditional pattern adjustments (like a full waist adjustment or a narrow hip adjustment) may work better.⁠
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🧵 Don't forget about length adjustments, which are super important to a jumpsuit fitting well. If you want to figure out whether you'll need length adjustments before you get into the muslin process, check what height the pattern was designed for. If you're two inches taller, you may want to lengthen the top and bottom by one inch each (at the lengthen/shorten lines). ⁠
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🧵 If you want an easier fitting process, choose a looser, sleeveless pattern like the Helen’s Closet Lazo Jumpsuit. Looking for a challenge? Go for a more fitted, sleeved pattern like the Closet Core Blanca Flight Suit!⁠
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For lots more about fitting and sewing jumpsuits, plus some great indie patterns recommendations, check out Episode 257: Overalls and Jumpsuits!⁠
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If Caroline could only sew one thing, it would be: block print dresses! 😍⁠
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In this week's episode, we share a bunch of interesting listener responses to the question: "If you could only sew one thing, what would it be?" And we share our answers, too! Caroline adores block print fabrics; they're colourful, intricate, handmade, lightweight, breathable, and easy to sew! Here are some block print dresses she's already made:⁠
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✨ A Victory Patterns #SofiaDress in an amazing mustard yellow, red, and green floral print.⁠
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✨ A Helen’s Closet #MarchDress hack with an added flounce (and matching mask) in a gorgeous bright green with yellow and green sprigs.⁠
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✨ A Pattern Fantastique #ValiDress in a beautiful deep blue with pink and green floral print.⁠
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All fabrics are from Blackbird Fabrics, of course! ⁠If you could only sew with one fabric, what would it be? Let us know in the comments!⁠
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