Some treks welcome you with warm rooms, menus, and familiar smiles.

Kanchenjunga welcomes you with silence.

Day 3: Gyabla to Phale Gau was the day I understood that this trek is not built around tourists.

Everest Base Camp trek is crowded, but the crowds bring comfort: Wi-Fi, bakeries, coffee, hot showers, snacks, and lodges everywhere.

Manaslu circuit trek is quieter, but trekking is already part of the local rhythm. Lodges feel familiar. Hospitality feels warmer. You know more or less what to expect.

Kanchenjunga is different.

The trail that day was beautiful: river below, balcony paths above the valley, quiet forest, slow climbs, and mountains opening under a clear sky.

But around this beauty, there was emptiness.

Villages are far apart. Lodges are few. Trails can stay empty for hours. People may be reserved at first. They are not unfriendly, just less used to tourism.

You arrive not as a customer in a trekking system, but as a stranger in someone’s home region.

So the experience becomes more basic. It's Food. Shelter. Weather. Distance. Trust.

Your guide and porter are not just “staff” here. They are your team, your safety, and your bridge to the place.

Kanchenjunga does not give much comfort. But it gives silence, raw nature, simplicity, and connection that has to be built slowly. Not polished.

But very real.

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A small cold in the Himalaya is not always a small thing.

Day 2 of the Kanchenjunga trek: Lamatar to Gyabla — around 13 km and about 1,300 m of climbing.

I woke up with a sore throat, blocked nose, and a dull headache. Not dramatic at low altitude, but on a remote trail like Kanchenjunga, you pay attention early. Villages are far apart, comfort is basic, and there are no easy shortcuts if your body starts to struggle.

But what a trail.

We followed the river upstream, first walking in the riverbed where the white water was so loud that talking was almost impossible. Later, the path climbed higher and became a beautifully built stone trail along the hillside. Below us, the river kept moving. Ahead, white peaks slowly appeared.

The day became simple: walk, stop, eat, look around, continue.

One advice I would give for this kind of trek: don’t wait until you feel empty to eat. I had brought cereal bars, nuts, and snacks from France, and we stopped every two hours. Prashant also had cheese from the Langtang Yak Farm. These small stops helped keep the rhythm and energy steady.

And another thing: your guide and porter are not just “staff.” On a remote trek, they are your team, your safety, your companions. Sharing food, tea, jokes, silence, and decisions changes the whole experience.

We reached Gyabla tired, happy, and not fully healthy.

That night, wrapped in my sleeping bag, listening to cow bells outside in the dark, I wondered if my body would recover before the trail climbed higher.

Because in the mountains, small things can become big things.

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Kanchenjunga Trek Day 1: Towards an unknown wildernesses| from Sekathum to Lamatar

The first shock was my backpack.

Not when it was standing on the ground. There, it looked innocent, quite compact and even attractive. But when I lifted it, turned it, and felt it land on my shoulders, one very clear thought came to me for the first time:

I will carry this for hours. Today, and again tomorrow, and the day after.

The straps pressed the skin. The hip belt squeezed my belly (no six pack anymore). Oh, the weight was suddenly very real. Why I wanted to carry all my things this time, I asked my self.

It was still smaller and much lighter than Prashant and Laxman backpacks. So what did they carry? Hm...I had an idea that we would sleep three nights in a tent. To see the stars, feel the mountains even closer, and experience nature even more. So their backpacks were filled with all the camping gear and additional food. Sorry guys... I could not have known what was waiting for us in the upcoming days.

We started walking.

The trail followed the Ghunsa River. It was narrow so we moved one after another. Sometimes it almost disappeared due to landslides. Other times, it turned into a stone staircase.

There was no one but us, no noise, no rush. Just the sound of the river, the views on the valley, and happiness of knowing: This is exactly where I want to be.

After the preparations, flights, the jeeps, the bumpy road, the dust, and, above all, the waiting, my trek had finally begun.

The backpack was heavy.
But the mind became light.

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