The original plan was to take a boat straightaway after my arrival in Angoram, in the Sepik river, but I thought I'd better take a rest instead - even if I had nothing booked. the local priest put me up and in the morning local guy Morgan shows me arob Ng the local market, open everyday. the main food from here is sago, a tree from the palm oil family, from which the locals take almost everything. from the internal pulp that is eaten raw or processed to make flour, to its leaves that are used to make up houses' roofs. Watch YT video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/cdcVaPis2MY

I slow travel mainly to reduce my carbon footprint (by 10 times according to available estimates) but also to experience travel as most people in this world do. 78/

#refusetofly #travel #slowtravel #decarbonise #climateemergency #globalwarming #climateBreakdown #collapse #TippingPoint #papuaisland #PNG #Wewak #Sepik #WestSepik #researcher #researcherlife #AFuoco

Day 63: Big setback as only ferry serving Wewak has broken engine. The pastor looking after me recommends an alternative route through the Sepik river.

He leaves it late, but in the end he manages to find a place on the last truck of the day travelling to Angoram on the Sepik river. They leave me the privilege of travelling on the front of the truck where I have a comfy seat rather than the wooden benches all the other passengers use on the back. the scenery is very diverse from the ones I used to in Bougainville. there's no rainforest here, but rather grassland and bushes. it strikes me that even this very old, noisy and rusty truck is a luxury in comparison with the many who cannot afford it and walk over the main (and only) road. actually, we are lucky there's a road at all. This will stop at the Sepik river, as there's no bridge crossing over it.

I get to Angoram after an 8-hour drive. I have no idea where to stay and find a place to sleep in the local church (along with rats & insects).

https://youtube.com/shorts/xT5dboTbjP8

#refusetofly #travel #slowtravel #decarbonise #climateemergency #globalwarming #climateBreakdown #collapse #TippingPoint #papuaisland #PNG #Wewak #Sepik #WestSepik #researcher #researcherlife #AFuoco

I slow travel mainly to reduce my carbon footprint (by 10 times according to available estimates) but also to experience travel as most people in this world do.

I long to return to the "House of Culture" museum in Yogjakarta, a real "Atlas" of Javanese culture and history.
I am mesmerised by the section on the "Batyk", shawls that are worn in ceremonies marking the main stages in a person's life:
- birth, where the "gendogan" batyk is meant to wish good luck to the newborn;
- "Mitoni", taking place at 7 months of pregnancy;
- Adolescence (with a ceremony for boys when they get circumcised and girls when they have their first menstruation);
- Wedding, preceded by an engagement ceremony, where various batyk mark the 7 days of the rituals; The spouses often wear Sidomukti (to become noble/prosperous) or Truntum (reawakened love) to bless their union.
- Turning 64- as a person can be thought of having lived life to its full and to have acquired wisdom.
- Death, marked by dark tones.

Batyk also reveal a person's social status, as some patterns are exclusive to the "elite" and are forbidden to the "commoners". An example is the "Parang" - a diagonal "S" patterns representing waves of swords. They symbolize power and authority; the larger the motif, the higher the wearer's rank.

I wonder how virtually all human societies are characterised by rites of passage marking birth, adolescence, wedding, and death. We have more in common that what we could think of. More on my YT: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJL-sRWA7R4-tCkqYDPa3323wgLuqOBZg 67/

#RefuseToFly #ClimateEmergency #Slowtravel #decarbonise #ClimateAction #Sonobudoyu #Java #Indonesia #Yogjakarta #RitesOfPassage #Batyk

I am very proud of my newly bought solar power generator and I use it straightaway on my makeshift office space at the upper deck of the ship taking me to Jakarta. The sunset over the Java sea is, however, a big distraction for my overdue essay...
See video : https://youtube.com/shorts/X4CwMSqv_Wk

#RefuseToFly #Slowtravel #Decarbonise #ClimateAction #StrictlyPublicTransport #researcherlife #researcher #AFuoco #Singapore #Indonesia #Batam #Jakarta #FerryTravel #Pelni #JavaSea

It's a very short boat ride the one from Singapore to Batam, Indonesia. But it's really a springboard from the globalised, motorised, and carbonised part of the world to the Global South. I have already travelled about 14,000km to come here without taking airplanes and I truly savour the crossing of this physical but most importantly cultural boundary between North and South.

The taxi that takes me to the embarkment to Jakarta travels through bumpy roads, which turn into dirt road at the very access to the Pelni (the Indonesian national ferry company) departure point. I am torn between accepting the offer of porters to carry my luggage or carrying it myself. It's little money for me and a lot of money for them. I opt for carrying it myself, as I am short of Indonesian cash and I perceive porters' requests as bordering extortion. I travel 3rd class, because I want to stay as close as possible to the travelling conditions of most travellers. I get a bed in one of the many sleeping halls provided on the ship. A mattress is provided, although it's better not to think of the last time it has been washed. I must say sleeping is hard. People talk loudly throughout the night and kids cry loud. However, I am so tired that I sleep tight. As usual, I am woken up at 4am by the call to the Islamic morning prayer.

#RefuseToFly #Slowtravel #Decarbonise #ClimateAction #StrictlyPublicTransport #researcherlife #researcher #Singapore #Indonesia #Batam #FerryTravel #Pelni

Day 38 of my no-fly trip from Italy to Papua New Guinea: I only have a few hours to spend in Bangkok before my train to the far south of Thailand departs at 3 p.m. In this precious time visit Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. It is every bit as impressive as the Royal Palace and Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. I must say that I am torn between the magnificence of the place (the stupas are covered with countless pieces of uniquely crafted ceramics) and the awareness of the immense economic and political concentration of power that the construction of this temple must have meant. From time to time, I simply try to let myself be carried away by the beauty of the colours and the philosophical meaning of approaching the central stupa... I also try not to think that Bangkok is at the top of the list of capitals at risk of being submerged by sea water within this century. All cities at the confluence of large rivers share this common fate, and the excessive use of aquifers by the expanding population contributes to this bleak future. The colours of the Chao Phraya River blend beautifully with the soft tones of the temple, but it won't be long before these same waters could bring this temple to ruin, unless we stop our mad rush towards fossil fuels, deforestation, and cementification.

#refusetofly #SlowTravel #decarbonise #climateemergency #researcherlife #TheResearcher #ClimateAction #Bangkok #Overnighttrain #StrictlyPublicTransport #AFuoco 52/