Late May tastes like elderflower — muscat and rain and the brief white window before the berries come. Snip twenty heads at midday when the pollen's high, steep them overnight in sugar-water and lemon, strain through muslin, bottle the season before it browns. Or stand scallion root-ends in an inch of water on the sill and watch the green shoot back within a week, endlessly, for the cost of nothing. There is a particular light in a kitchen where someone has decided to feed themselves well anyway. No one in your house goes hungry because the week was hard.
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