Big. And Small. In Bhutan.

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Sometimes we get a chance to step behind the scenes at a Tshechu. We're not supposed to. We're not inside a prayer hall, which are strictly off-limits to photography in Bhutan, but there's always a tension around temples about where you can or cannot take photos.

These are always some of my most treasured moments. Not just the feeling of "should we be here?" but there's always an intimacy to the story in such moments. You feel like the door is open to look at the humans beneath the masks.

And the light is nice :)

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There was a moment when all the masks and skirts were donned, and the dancers had headed out to perform. One fellow stayed back inside, having assisted in the preparations and ensured the costumes were firmly in place.

He allowed himself a moment of pride.

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Masks await their turn to be brought back to life,

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A good chat is in order. Rinzi spent much of his childhood in this part of Bhutan, so he knows a few of the people who know a few people.

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Just a cheeky fella enjoying the last light of day at the end of a Tshechu :)

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The people of Bhutan are very kind to allow us into their festivals. They embrace our presence, offer us tea and food, make space for us to get a closer look, and in general they get excited to share the experience. The festivals closer to Paro or Thimphu are easy to access, but can have a LOT of tourists at them.

As a photographer I prefer it when the only white folks around are ourselves!

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The final cham of the day was about subduing the demons. Drums everywhere.

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Be warned, that is NOT coke she's slopping about in those bottles. The festive mood can be quite overpowering at these events.

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Last light of the day. The Tshechu is officially over and the locals swarm to make offerings to the temple, and receive blessings. I love this moment. It's like after a footy match when we'd run onto the ground and run amuck.

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